'Quiet luxury is bringing to the table a more splintered version of good taste', echoes Cohen. But while 2010’s minimalists favoured functionality and wardrobe rationalisation, quiet luxury is defined by its easy elegance. Proenza Schouler AW23 Jonas Gustavsson / Courtesy of PROENZA SCHOULER // LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHTĪn obvious assumption, as the rate of inflation rises and whispers of recession linger like the smell of Dior Sauvage on the underground, is that history is repeating itself, that quiet luxury has been birthed from the same circumstances as minimalism. 'I think part of what made her clothes so culturally relevant is that they never tried to escape or avoid reality, but there was also something implicit about how she designs, her clothes supported women throughout the ridges of their day-from the inner seams.' 'She made clothes for a woman to live her life in the 2010s, who could look cool at work and on the weekend, and with her kids, and out for dinner, in almost all the same garments,' explains Cohen. Cohen, a self-appointed Philophile, reflects on this period and Philo’s influence. A prime example is the 2008 recession, where after a decade of logomania and Paris Hilton’s 'that’s hot' catchphrase, brands like Céline (under the then creative director Phoebe Philo) offered functional fashion that felt more attune to our everyday lives. Fashion has long been the barometer for social and economic changes. Though, the embrace of quiet luxury is more than just a lockdown-era lesson well learned. Phoebe Philo’s last collection for Céline SS18 Filippo Fior // LAUNCHMETRICS SPOTLIGHT However, over the last six months, quiet luxury has found its way to the centre stage. Labels like The Row, Totême and Tove (founded in 2006, 20, respectively) have built entire brands around a steady stream of loyal customers who prefer refined tailoring over loud and proud monograms. Like an eager understudy waiting for their West End debut, this pared-back aesthetic has been in the wings for a while now. A home or an outfit feels luxurious when it breathes a clear style.' A harmony in the colour palette, in different textures and shapes. 'I believe that feeling of luxury comes from some kind of harmony. 'Luxury is the same as quality for me,' says Maja Dixdotter, the Creative Director of By Malene Birger – a label that has recently reached cult status by repositioning itself with a 'stealth wealth' aesthetic under a new design team. It’s not about breaking the bank in the name of a cashmere jumper, but rather taking a slower, more simplistic, approach to dressing. If you can't quite picture it, think Claudia Winkleman in a grey roll neck in The Traitors or Gwyneth Paltrow’s courtroom green overcoat from The Row.
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